Contemporary Revival: Urban Fashion, Sportswear, and Luxury

Since the early 2000s, amid a renewed interest in traditional craftsmanship, tabi have experienced a resurgence. It began quietly in Japan—especially in artistic and alternative circles—before streetwear brands and even luxury houses embraced the concept.

Maison Margiela reintroduced the tabi as a leather ankle boot, now considered iconic. At the same time, Japanese brands like Sou•Sou, Marugo Jika-Tabi, and Tabio reinvented the tabi in modern forms: cushioned soles, technical fabrics, graphic patterns, and sneaker- or yoga-inspired designs.

This revival has a double appeal: tabi evoke deep Japanese tradition while offering a more natural and body-aware experience. The split-toe design improves balance, enhances movement awareness, and offers a sense of freedom unmatched by conventional socks.

They have won over minimalists, designers, dancers, athletes—and more broadly, anyone seeking meaningful garments adapted to modern life.

💡 Good to know: Numerous biomechanical studies show that separating the big toe promotes better posture, a more stable gait, and reduced muscular tension in the legs and back.

The Westernization of Japanese Fashion (Meiji Era to 1950s)

The Arrival of Western Clothing and the Partial Disappearance of the Kimono

The Meiji era (1868–1912) marked a dramatic turning point. After over two centuries of isolation, Japan rapidly modernized. The government imposed Western standards—especially in education, politics, and clothing.

High-ranking officials, soldiers, and teachers were required to abandon the kimono in favor of Western three-piece suits, ties, and bowler hats. The modern Japanese man in the street became indistinguishable from a 19th-century European.

For the general population, the shift was gradual. In rural areas and among women, the kimono remained dominant for decades. But slowly, especially in Tokyo and Osaka, tailoring shops opened, Western fashion magazines circulated, and traditional dress gave way to modern textiles.

Cultural Resistance: Women, Festivals, and Daily Life

Still, Westernization did not erase Japanese traditional fashion. Women continued to wear kimonos for major life events, children wore them for school ceremonies, and local festivals celebrated ancestral garments.

Tabi survived too—worn at home, during ceremonies, or in manual trades. Japanese construction and garden workers kept using jika-tabi (tabi with rigid soles) for their flexibility and durability.

This period marked the beginning of a dual wardrobe: a modern, Westernized Japan on one side, and a deeply rooted, traditional Japan on the other.

The Kimono Relegated to Tradition... Temporarily

After World War II, the kimono became almost exclusively ceremonial—worn at weddings, funerals, graduations. Women often needed formal training to learn how to wear it correctly.

However, in the 1960s and 1970s, a few Japanese designers began to reclaim the kimono, not just as traditional clothing, but as an object of design and cultural study. This shift paved the way for a more radical reinvention in the decades to come.

The Contemporary Japanese Style Revolution

Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and the Aesthetics of Deconstruction

In the 1980s, Japanese designers like Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Issey Miyake disrupted the global fashion scene. Their names became synonymous with a new approach: conceptual, poetic, radically innovative.

Their collections featured asymmetrical cuts, recycled materials, abstract silhouettes, and dark palettes. They rejected symmetry, gender norms, and seasonal trends. Drawing from Japan’s textile heritage, they critiqued Western consumerism and conformity.

The kimono, T-cut construction, and draping logic were reimagined. Clothing was no longer about seduction—but about questioning: the body, movement, and identity.

Harajuku and Japanese Streetwear: Identity and Freedom

Meanwhile, in the 1990s, Tokyo’s youth developed a globally unique style: Harajuku fashion. In this neighborhood, young people combined Western influences with traditional garments, cosplay, punk, kawaii, and more—in explosive mixes of color, texture, and reference.

This streetwear movement expressed personal identity in a society known for uniformity and discretion. The outfits were exuberant, theatrical, and deeply creative.

Tabi found a place in this world too—worn with vintage dresses, hybrid sneakers, or cosplay looks, becoming highly symbolic and visually striking accessories.

Back to Roots: Craftsmanship, Modernized Tabi, and Hybridization

Since the 2010s, a new movement has emerged: a return to roots. Young Japanese designers, sometimes trained abroad, have revived traditional know-how—natural fabrics, ancestral dyeing techniques, and local craftsmanship.

Tabi are part of this wave. They’ve been reinterpreted in modern forms: vegan models, denim tabi, collaborations between artisans and sneaker brands, or limited edition numbered pieces.

This fashion promotes slower, more conscious consumption aligned with ecological and spiritual values. It embodies the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi—the beauty of imperfection, simplicity, and transience.

💡 Good to know: Some active tabi workshops in Japan still use hand-stitching techniques dating back to the Edo period. Buying their products helps support a living heritage.